Meet Souk- the funny frenchman, fox whisperer and owner of the only BnB that would rather enjoy his built-by-hand 7-room hotel at 100% vacancy than book worldly travelers begging for room and board at Trip Advisors #1 ranked hotel in the tiny town of Tilcara.
We like to call him Shmea.
As you can see from the pics, we were one of the lucky ones who were granted access to Cerro Chico. He’s a romantic, so perhaps the whole we’re-on-our-honeymoon bit struck a cord. Or he has a thing for blondes. Anywho, Shmea’s quirky charm matched his rustic huts all simply and very tastefully designed with a bit of whimsy. I love whimsy.
Upon arrival, he’ll give ya a tour of the grounds, introduce you to his llamas, talk to you about his foxes, hand you a Nokia (it has snake) and send you on your way. However, after about the 10th call asking about our whereabouts, what time we were having dinner, and where we were having dinner, we thought we may have mistaken Shmea’s quirky charm for psycho stalker. My mind can wander so with each call I was going deeper in to Lifetime Original type scenarios. NOT THE CASE.
He was only calling so he could perfectly time a crackling fire in our room’s wood-fired stove when we returned. Amazing, romantic, memorable, I wish we had had more time to enjoy those little touches, the historic town and our favorite frenchman, Souk.
W H A T W E D I D
Quebrada de Humahuaca Day Tour
You’ll most likely reach Cerro Chico by way of Salta which is where you will also book your tour. Bus leaves early so get your slumber the night before. After a hotel pickup, you'll travel north for about two hours towards the Quebrada and learn all about the history of the Incans and this UNESCO World Heritage Site, explore 3 different historic sites and check out the 7 Colors Hill or Painters Pallete.
T I P - Don’t eat with your tour group in Tilcara. The restaurant is massive, overcrowded, and the food looks less than desirable. Recommendation below!
W H E R E W E A T E
In Salta - La Casona de Molino
Luis Burela 1, Salta, Argentina
About a 15 minute taxi ride from town, but well worth it. This gem resides in what looks like a desolate neighborhood with wandering perritos. Step one foot in the door, however and you’ll be immediately comforted by the smell of the food, tunes from the trio of musicians and packed house full of happy patrons.
Purmamarca (Lunch Spot on Tour) - Los Patios De Lucia
C/Cordoba 89, Humahuaca 4630, Argentina
Walk into this small restaurant turned 4-table restaurant in the enclosed patio and you’ll be greeted by the very jovial host, head chef and owner, Lucia. It was here we ate llama and drank poison for the first time. Luckily the poison was in the form of coffee flavored liquor. Delicious. Everything was. The menu is small so just order everything and eat hearty!
Tilcara - Le Nuevo Progreso 1917
Lavalle 351 | Lavalle 351, Tilcara 4624, Argentina
We got fancy one night and went to Le Nuevo Progreso. Reasonable prices, romantic ambiance and wonderful food.
O R D E R
Ensalada tibia de quinoa y verduras grilladas, con semillas tostadas y vinagreta de mostaza
Warm Salad of Quinoa and Grilled Vegetables with Roasted Seeds and Mustard Vinaigrette
W H E R E W E S T A Y E D
In Tilcara - Cerro Chico
Cerro chico, Tilcara 4624, Argentina
If you’ve read this far, you know our sentiments on this place.
In Salta - Carpe Diem
Urquiza 329, Salta, Argentina
Husband-wife duo head up this tiny BnB in Salta. Clean rooms and bathrooms with worldly taste. Some pretty incredible blue checkered floors I couldn’t stop talking about. Oh and don’t mind the cats. I think we counted about six. You get use to them.
M O O D M U S I C