Luckily that didn’t stop us from exploring the rad City of Kings—a magical union of past and present architecture, museums, art, beaches, churches, good weather, friendly people and Peruvian gastronomy.
A Summary: Conner getting electrocuted
*Air BnB rarely disappoints in its accommodations, but this experience was quite a doozy. After our host was a no-show, the friendly family upstairs took us in and poured us Chicha Moradas, a popular Peruvian beverage that looks like wine and tastes like apple juice. Nice fam, cozy house. Host finally arrives and leads us to our “quaint” abode for the next 4 days. Damp, dark, ant-infested, kitchen outside, desk disintegrating inside. A real beaut. Conner hops in the shower to wash off the shock and gets an actual electrical shock- screamed like a girl. Funny, but not really. But kinda. We left that night for this awesome apartment in the boho neighborhood of Barranco.
*Air BnB went above and beyond to ensure Conner was ok and gave us a full refund.
Onto Lima and the Overdose
First, the architecture. Spanish colonial, neoclassical, baroque, art nouveau, art deco— a reflection of the various time periods of the city’s history kept my eyes preoccupied from less important things like moving vehicles, bikes, people, etc. Luckily Conner used his eyes for our safety. And then there were the floors. Every building we peeked through had floors just as photogenic as their facades. Did the quintessential pic-of-feet-on-floor thing one too many times.
Peru in general is known for its culinary fusion of cultural exchanges between Spanish, Japanese, African, Chinese, Italian, and more. Lima, specifically has attracted some of the world’s top chef’s, coining the city as the food capital of South America. From street food to world-renowned restaurants, we ignored fullness in favor of eating our way through every district of Lima—specifically, ceviche. After an entire day of nothing but ceviche, we found ourselves boxing out for first dibs at the closest toilet. This went on for another 4 days and into Cusco paired with altitude sickness. Use your imagination:)
T I P - One ceviche per day. And if you blow it like we did, eat bananas, burnt toast and sweet potato baby food—it will eventually heal your gut.
W H E R E W E A T E
Bioferia de Miraflores - Farmer’s Market
Parque Reducto No. 2 Av. Benavides y Via Expresa, Miraflores, Peru
We embarked on our culinary tour the first morning in Lima starting with the Bioferia, Lima’s weekly organic farmer’s market, which is basically a Whole Foods superfood section for a quarter of the price. Sprouts, maca, chia, quinoa, bee pollen, etc. You name it, they have it along with an smorgasbord of fresh fruits, vegetables, breads, cheeses and a gourmet spread of baked goods. We ate everything and then bought every fresh ingredient available to cook a feast at our apartment later that evening.
T I P - Cook the vegetables. They are big, they are beautiful, and they are grown using water that is not so forgiving to the digestive tract.
Genova 101, Barranco, Lima
A lively Cevicheria with loads of character, loads of locals and loads amazing ceviche nestled in a corner nook of Barranco. One of our favorites. The menu is daunting, but we went with the following that did not disappoint:
Large, perfectly crisped fries served with aji yellow sauce, a mild dip that tastes far better than ketchup.
Chucks of raw fish, squid & octopus marinated in freshly squeezed citrus, sliced onions, chili peppers, salt, pepper, oversized corn kernels and soft sweet potato.
Pilsen - a light Peruvian beer that pairs with everything.
El Pez Amigo
Av. La Paz 1640, Miraflores, Lima, Peru
A family-style atmosphere, mellow with a menu of Peruvian seafood classics.
A delicious nosh of roasted and salted oversized corn. You can get this pretty much everywhere, and we did.
Ceviche de Pescada
A simple ceviche with huge chunks of fish drenched in leche de tigre (a spicy citrus juice).
We got hooked up with a reservation at this Pellegrino award-winning restaurant thanks to some local friends who had been working on a reservation for us weeks prior to the trip. Literally discovered we had a reservation an hour after our second cevicheria— we immediately booked it to our apartment's gym and worked as hard as we could for an hour leading up the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian food we feasted on at Maido. Seated at the sushi bar, we created our own tasting tour, ordering a dish from every section of the extensive menu and watched as the chef’s created works-of-art in complete focus of every little layer, dot, detail of Maido’s legendary dishes.
S T A N D O U T S
Scallops from Paracas, maca emulsion, chalaca, cushuro marinated in ceviche juice.
Easily the best Ceviche we have ever had.
Silverside fish from Ancon, scallops from Paracas and limpets, smoked yellow chili leche de tigre, avocado, kizanda nori, Peruvian corn.
Baby lamb, lima beans, loche, creole sauce air
Tonkotsu, Shoyu, Miso or Tantamen (super spicy)
Amado cacao 70% yuzu, shica shica ice cream, mochis, bahuaja nuts, cacao nibs.
La Posada del Angel 1
Pedro de Osma 164, Barranco, Peru
Go simply for a drink and live music. Food is not their strongpoint but the atmosphere and energy is fantastic!
W H E R E W E W E N T
Saenz Peña 295, Barranco 15063, Peru
Staged in yet another incredible building in Barranco, this multi-room boutique of all things rad serves as both a showroom and shop filled with handmade ceramics, textiles, woodwork, art, home goods and an entire room dedicated to children—clothes, books, lots-o-mini things. I spent a good-while in here. Wanted everything, left with nothing after recalling I had nothing but a backpack for the next 4 months.
Av. Pedro de Osma 106 Barranco
Gardenology mixed with well-curated odds n' ends. While Dedalo is a little more folky, x offers more contemporary print art, home decor, succulent collection, pottery and paper goods.
We went all over the city by foot, by bus, by Uber to explore the endless districts of Lima. From the artistic bohemian district of Barranco and upscale dining in Mariflores to the UNESCO Historic Center downtown, each neighborhood offered its own history and unique charm.
M O O D M U S I C